H&M and Giambattista Valli

Thoughts on Fast Fashion Couture and Co-Branding

H&M and Giambattista Valli created the oxymoron of the century: Fast Fashion Couture?! H&M has definitely contributed to fast fashion luxury becoming a ‘thing’ and entering this century’s dictionary and now they are attempting a new height of controversy. In a time when we are finally having conversations about sustainability across the whole fashion system, there are companies actively mocking any progress made. Isolating the consumer in this mirror universe where he/she is having a conversation with him/herself while the company stays behind the scenes, hiding in a bubble.

For the purpose of this blog, I will look at this collaboration from the aspect of branding or co-branding. Going through all the parties involved and how they are affected by this partnership. I will concentrate the conversation around Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, H&M, and Giambattista Valli.

What is luxury? By definition, luxury is perceived as unattainable, exclusive, of high quality… What does luxury mean when we are discussing ‘luxury for everyone’? As luxury is unavoidably expensive, H&M will have no choice, but to sell this collaboration collection at a higher price, so that the illusion is sustained and clients’ expectations are met.

One might argue this is a chance for everyone to get a piece of glamour: ‘striving to make haute couture accessible to the masses’. It’s affordable Giambattista!.. Now it is?! You might be getting a piece, but don’t get it twisted. It is, what it is- just a piece. Haute couture is a complex combination of factors. It’s the designer’s vision and execution of a concept/ idea, but it’s also the materials, fabrics, the craftsmanship behind it, the way the creation is presented. It’s a state of art… Lastly, but not least an haute couture clothing is made to measure, it is unique and done specifically to fit you. Who made these clothes and who are they fitting?

The message behind the campaign is beautiful: ‘Spread Love’ or #ProjectLove. Who pays for that love from an image perspective? H&M has been doing these high-low collaborations since 2004 when the brand collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld. As controversial, as they are, these collaborations have been going on for over a decade. Thus, it is worth examining the effect they have on branding.

The palace

The fashion show took place at Palazzo Doria Pamphilj with the beautiful gallery holding one of Rome’s richest private art collections, with works by Raphael, Tintoretto, Titian, Caravaggio, Bernini, and Velázquez, as well as several Flemish masters. The place aligns with Giambattista Valli as he is an Italian designer born and raised in Rome.

This fashion show also complies with prince Jonathan Doria Pamphilj’s desire to bring life to the place. Palazzo Doria Pamphilj has enjoyed tax benefits and advantages granted by the government as a significant historical building in the past. There were times the family had to take care of the place on their own, when in June 2012 the cash-strapped Italian government abruptly took away these benefits as the prince discloses in front of Vanity Fair. Having the exposure that this fashion show brings is bottom-line beneficial for the palace, likely bringing more visitors and guests to the gallery and the private events hosted there.

Most importantly, as we are talking about this particular collaboration, H&M receives a luxury treatment for their collection. The showcase doesn’t fall back behind any other luxury fashion show, being held at a glamorous location.

H&M

H&M has statistically benefited from collaborations ever since their start. Most of these high-end collabs have been sold out within hours of release. There are a few factors leading to this effect.

First, H&M is boosted by adding the famous designer’s name next to theirs. This creates an instant intrigue and anticipation for another level of quality. Nonetheless, as it is H&M, clients are excited because they know that the collection will be ‘affordable’.

Second, Valli is on a watch out for his name and so H&M gets to put their brand tag on distinguishable Giambattista Valli pieces like the mullet-hem tulle gown.

Third, as already mentioned the fashion show is treated like any luxury fashion show: being held at a beautiful location, having a top model Kendall Jenner as the face of the campaign and part of the show. Famous influencers like Chiara Ferragni were invited as well as famous industry insiders and others who are culturally relevant for the natural spreading of the event.

Hence, what comes out of this collaboration is an elevation of H&M’s brand image. The desire of people to own luxury or even couture pieces have always played to the advantage of fast-fashion retailers. Keeping their brands alive. But what does that bring the designers they collaborate with?

Giambattista Valli

Giambattista Valli is an Official Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture since 2011 when he showed his first couture collection, which makes this collaboration with H&M as he said: “It’s indeed a collaboration rather out of the ordinary”.

The collaboration was announced this May at the amfAR gala during Cannes Film Festival. Beautiful setting with an alignment to the idea ‘Project Love’ since they definitely brought attention to the foundation.

Top models and influencers are elevating H&M’s status as well as they are helping preserve the image of Valli’s designs. The next important step was that they did a limited pre-drop collection released after the announcement in May. They sold out fast before the official launch on the 7th of November.

This only creates another great anticipation for the collection for anyone who didn’t get their hands on it on the first run. This creates the illusion of a limited product, adding more value to it.

This great expectation is rewarded by another exclusive event- the fashion show at Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. This is a great setting for Giambattista Valli, born and raised in Rome. I bet he would have preferred to have done that with an actual haute couture collection of his, but you take what you can.

This collaboration, all together, brings a great PR buzz and exposure to him as well as to H&M. Prolonged for months is a great boost in media attention, which would not have happed otherwise.

Thoughts

The problem comes after the client has purchased from this collection and is paying quite a high price for fast fashion production. What happens to their expectations? Are they met?

The first scenario, if a client is happy with their purchase, probably they are middle-income earners and would think they are getting an exclusive deal for less. Do they think they own something of great quality?

The second scenario, a more high-income consumer, familiar with luxury brands. They purchase online and receive beautiful packaging on their front door, only to find out the quality is not there and the buzz was too much for what they got… How do we create a sustainable industry when we degrade the value of work?

When you market fast fashion as couture it is interesting and intriguing, right? Couture for all… Everyone is happy? Now customers are confused. Thinking this is a piece of couture for less money!?!?! Where does that take us? The expectation of quality becomes not too high, while the prices should be considerably affordable.

For a fast fashion collection, the prices are actually quite high. The money people will spend on these pieces, that they won’t even wear most of the time and will just resale or keep in their closets, could have gone into buying one quality piece from a small atelier or independent designer who is still not so well know. Then the quality will be way higher and the fit very likely perfect.

To conclude, buying clothing from a fast-fashion retailer and installing upon it so much perceived quality… When all you get is industrial fitting, high price for that quality and fleeting piece, which may or may not be worn more than once or twice.

On the opposite side of this coin, you could buy with this money a piece made from an independent atelier, who will make clothing fit you perfectly. You will receive a quality piece, made to measure, that you will have to pass down to the next generation and at the same time will be supporting the harsh reality of the small businesses and contribute to their development. As we are lovers of style, an added bonus is you are very unlikely to ever meet anyone wearing the same as you on the street, unlike if you bought it from H&M.

In unequal collaborations like H&M x Giambattista Valli there will always be losses for the better player but hopefully advantages as well. Maybe some young Gen-Z will forever remember this collaboration and will one day be able to purchase a real couture dress from Giambattista Valli. Will he be around for that to happen? Will H&M still be feeding on famous designers? Who knows..?

Wish you a mindful shopping!

Yours,

MK ❤

P.S. I really recommend to anyone who happens to be in Rome to visit Palazzo Doria Pamphilj. It is an amazing experience and the definite bonus is the audio-guided tour narrated by Prince Jonathan. He has a great sense of humor combined with extensive knowledge of his family heritage. The palazzo is definitely so far my favorite historical building in Rome.